Name: Chinese Egg Rolls
Cook time: 1 3/4 hr
Total time: 2 1/4 hr
Yield: Makes about 24
Ingredients: 2 tablespoons oyster sauce; 1 tablespoon soy sauce; 2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil; 2 teaspoons sugar; 1/2 teaspoon salt; About 4 cups peanut or vegetable oil; 2 teaspoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger; 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic; 1 1/2 bunches scallions (about 10), white and pale green parts cut into 2-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into very thin matchsticks (2 1/2 cups); 2 celery ribs, cut into very thin matchsticks (2 cups); 2 medium carrots, cut into very thin matchsticks (1 cup); 8 large fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps sliced 1/4 inch thick (3 cups); 1 lb medium shrimp in shell (31 to 35 per lb), peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped; 1/4 lb Chinese roast pork (char siu) or leftover roast pork, cut into 2-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into very thin matchsticks; 1 (1-lb) package Asian egg roll or spring roll wrappers; 1 large egg, lightly beaten; Accompaniments: Asian sweet chile sauce; Chinese mustard; a deep-fat thermometer

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Photo by Romulo Yanes

Hold the cabbage! The takeout industry has given egg rolls a bad name, but in the 1940s, Gourmet readers clamored for a genuine version of the "Chinese delicacy." Our answer was fragrant with garlic, scallions, shiitakes, shrimp, and roast pork.

Cooks' notes:

· Filling can be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Stir before using. · Egg rolls can be fried 4 hours ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat in 1 layer on a rack set over a baking sheet in middle of a preheated 350°F oven, turning once, until crisp and centers are warmed through, 15 to 20 minutes. (Reheated rolls will not be as crisp.)

Recipe notes

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